Waterlow Estate History

Documenting the history of the Waterlow Estate in Bethnal Green, East London. Comprising Wilmot, Corfield, Ainsley and Finnis Street the Waterlow Estate was built by the Improved Industrial Dwellings Company starting in 1869.

Category: corfield street

A conversation with Ray Herrington

Ray Herrington lived with his family on the Waterlow Estate for the first 17 years of his life (from 1939 to 1956). His (step) grandmother was also the landlady of The Lamb pub. A few months ago Ray’s son Mark contacted me about talking with his father.

Ray’s life story would fill a book, and in our short conversation we managed to cover gangsters, street parties, bombs, nazi bashing and even the royal family. It was a real pleasure talking with Ray, his stories bring to life the real community spirit of The Estate. So grab a cup of tea and settle in, as Ray has a lot of memories and local knowledge to share !

The Lamb, 36 Wilmot Street.

As well as The Lamb pub, Ray and his family occupied a number of properties on The Estate. I started by asking Ray to tell me about his early life in Bethnal Green until he moved away in 1956.

“I was born in 1939, at Bethnal Green Hospital on the 1st May to Mrs. Herrington. My mum and dad had a flat – number 428 Corfield Street. It’s the second block from Three Colts Lane on the left as you looked out. Corfield Street is still there. I don’t know what it’s condition is now. It was quite a super place then”

“Anyway, the war started (because I was born, I think!) and dad got called up into the RAF. It was quite hectic there at that time. From then on, just me and my mum was there and it was the one flat from the top. As my dad was away, she had to get a job. She was a top machinist. She worked just off Brick Lane, she had a room full of machinists and they made clothes and she was in charge of them all. It was a Jewish firm, because they were all Jewish down there, you see.

My gran who lived at 108 Wilmot Street (with my granddad) looked after me while mum went to work.

When war was declared and the bombs started falling, we used to go back home [to 428 Corfield] on weekends, but then we had an incendiary bomb fall on the flats and it landed on our landing, next to our houses. When the people came up to get my mum out, she says, “No, I’m not going out. I’m staying here. If we go, we’re going to go together.”

Anyway, all the children down there, about 95% of them were then evacuated away into the country, but my mum wouldn’t let me go. [laughs] She said, “I’m going to have to come and live with you mum.” That’s at 108 Wilmot Street.

She kept the flat on for when my dad came back, which he never got any leave or anything, you know those days. She lived with my gran over at 108 Wilmot Street. In the meantime, when the bombs started falling, the council built big shelters in the middle of the road along Wilmot Street.

One of the air raid shelters on Wilmot Street

I was then going across the road to Wilmot Street School. That was my first school. After that I went to Lawrence Street School (Author – I think this is now Lawdale School on Mansford Street), the other side of Bethnal Green Road. Then after that I took my 11 plus and I went to Parmiter’s Grammar School that was up near Victoria Park, but I couldn’t stand it there because it wasn’t my sort of school. Not only did I have to wear a cap and everything, but the teachers walked round in these bloody great Batman gowns and you’re supposed to use Latin and Greek and all this stuff and you had to play rugby and cricket. I was a very good swimmer, I wanted to do swimming and football. I complained a lot my mum and dad they decided to go to the council and asked if I could be transferred to a technical school.

So I left Parmiter’s school and went to Morpeth Street Secondary school which was completely technical, woodwork, metalwork, football, swimming, and everything. Which was all more my thing.

I was getting famous because in the newspapers it was,”Herrington’s beaten three records at the swimming galas” and all this business. While I was at Morpeth street and at the Lawrence School, I swam for the school for Bethnal Green, for East London, for London, for southern England and England. I went up to Lancaster and appeared in the finals England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales at Lancaster in the swimming finals.

When I finished at school I went to work for Robert Dyas. That’s an ironmonger, you’ve probably heard about Robert Dyas. I was an ironmonger’s assistant, selling tools and all the tools and engineering stuff. I started at Cheapside in London – right by St Pauls. That’s where I first started, then I moved from there to Bishopsgate – right near the Tower of London. Then from there I moved to South Kensington High Street. You do a section at each shop you see. Anyway, at 17 and a half, I got me call-up papers for national service because of the Suez Crisis. That is when I left Bethnal Green.”

Talking to Ray about his life after Bethnal Green he described a life of adventure. I asked him if he stayed in the forces after his National Service.

“22 and a half years. I was in the air force initially. I was very successful in the forces. There’s some things I can’t tell you about because of security”

Ray hinted at many intriguing adventures, but wouldn’t be drawn on too many details.

“I went all over the world. I went to Cyprus, Jordan, Libya, Egypt, Kenya, Aiden. Everywhere I went.

During this time I trained to be a chartered engineer. It took loads and loads of college work. I also was persuaded to move on to the Queen’s Flight and I flew the Royals all over the world. I took the Queen down to Australia in 1973 to open the Opera House. I took Charles and all of them all over the world. Did eight years there and I was due three years before I came out.

I went up and saw Air Commodore Winskill and said, “I’m sorry, sir. I need to leave the Queen’s Flight because I’ve just been offered a job over in Canada by Hawker Siddeley.” I said, “I don’t want to get on those sort of aircraft. These aircraft that I’m flying at the moment, I want to go to something more modern.”

When you’re on the Queen’s Flight and you decide you’re going to leave, you can have whatever job you want wherever you want. I said, “Well, I’d like to go over to Abingdon,” which was only 15 miles away from Benson, “and do the Jaguar majors that are going to start there.” Air Commodore Winskill just phoned them up and said, “Our chief tech coming over who’s got to run Jaguar majors for you. Give him a hanger and give him all that he needs” I was there for three years doing the Jaguar majors.

I used to have CWP. A company work in British Aerospace. This director of British Aerospace came down just before we were due to come out and said, “We need a chartered engineer to be the accident assessor for British Aerospace. We can’t get anywhere. Would you work for us?” Luckily where Walton was up here is where my wife was born. I said, “Yes, okay.” I went there and I spent so many years there before I retired.

Sepecat Jaguar GR1 at RAF Abingdon © Robin A Walker

We got back to talking about his childhood memories of Bethnal Green and the Waterlow Estate. Ray and his family lived in a number of flats in the Estate, including The Lamb pub. He was living with his gran at 108 Wilmot Street, while his mother and father lived at 428 Corfield Street. I asked him about these flats and his memories of the estate itself.

“Once my dad was home, he started playing about with other women. So my mum divorced him. She swapped 428 to 275 Coldfield Street and I went to live with her there. Because I’d been with my gran before. But then my granddad got, It was cancer I suppose, they didn’t know what it was in them days, so he died. My mum then was courting my new stepfather down in the pub. She eventually married him and she moved up to the 275 flat with me and him. Although I couldn’t get on with him, we were always fighting.

I moved to me gran’s down in Wilmot Street. She had moved from 108 Wilmot street to 156 Wilmot street because my granddad couldn’t walk properly. 108 was one floor up and 156 was one floor down. So she’d moved there. My granddad died. My mum said you’ll have to go live with your gran. So I went to live with me granny at 156 Wilmot street.”

The Lamb was owned by Alice Clarke , who was my step father’s mother. I think it was 1938. I think that she took over The Lamb. I never moved in until my mum and step dad got married.

Before she bought the pub she was, this is where she got her money I’m sure, she was a bedroom steward on the P+O lines. England to Australia and back.

She had four children working with her there. That was Ronald Clarke, Patricia Corrick, Jeff Clarke , and Maria Allen who was married to an RAF fighter pilot, he used to have all these coats and guns swinging on his hips. They were all Clarke originally.

Alice Clarke behind the bar at The Lamb pub in Bethnal Green

Before mum met dad, in the pub, Alice used to have a big red setter called Judy. I used to go and knock on the door and say, “Mrs. Clarke can I walk your red setter Judy, please? She’d say, “All right, but you take her to Barmy Park and you don’t let her off until you get on the park, will you?” I used to take the dog down Three Colt’s Lane under the arch till we got to Cambridge Heath Road, and there was a big park there then which everybody called Barmy Park.

The reason they called it Barmy park, when I was a kid there was a big library there, which used to be a lunatic asylum. I used to walk her down there and bring her back and she gave me a penny which was a lot of money in those days.

Note – you can read more about the history of Barmy Park and Bethnal Green Library here.

Bethnal Green Library opening in 1922

Whilst I was at the Lamb, diagonally across was the British Railway entrance to go up to the steam trains. That arch there led down to Brady Street, there used to be one of these old Gypsy caravan type things that used to be parked there. That was ran by Ted. He used to open one side of his caravan and he used to sell tea, coffee, glasses of water, arrowroot biscuits, and all the stuff that he could get a hold of to the railway blokes.

The train would stop, they’d run down, “Give us a mug of tea, quick. I’ve got five minutes before the trains goes again.” He used to have that under there. When my mum used to go down outside the pub, I used to stand outside the pub and my mum and gran would go in and have a drink and I’d get a biscuit or a bag of crisps or something like that. If it was raining and I used to go over to Ted’s and he’d let me go up the steps into his caravan and hide under the counter where it was warm.

You can always tell somebody who lived in Bethnal Green if they knew the answer to this question – “Why didn’t the lion eat the lamb?”. The Lamb was on one corner and if you turned right into Three Colt’s Lane and went up to the next junction, on the other corner was a pub called the Lion. Somebody would say, “Oh, yes, I come from Bethnal Green, I did this, I did that.” Then you’d say, “Why didn’t the lion eat the lamb?” Then if they didn’t know the answer, you would tell them to shove off. The answer is, because The Good Shepherd is on the opposite corner of Wilmot Street to the Lamb. It was a Christian place where you had to go and have Sunday school and all that.

The Good Shepherd Mission

The Lamb had a massive great big flat roof on the top. It’s got a load of flats up there now, but anyway, massive great flat roof with a big water tank where me, Peter, Jerry. (who were the son and daughter of Patricia Clarke , we used to call her Aunt Pops). Anyway, we used to go up the top there and swim in this water tank and obviously if we wanted to go to the toilet, we used to go to the toilet in there. It was only later we realised that that was the water they used it at the taps. [laughter]”

Regulars in The Lamb  – Ray’s mum Eileen Clarke has the handbag. His grandad Geoff Clarke is behind the bar behind the ladies on the right. Alice Clarke , the landlady is the tall lady on the far left , with a tall gent … think he was a gold prospector who travelled to South Africa. I think the chap in the centre was one of the local ‘enforcers’ (says Ray’s son Mark). Photograph taken between 1945-48

I asked Ray about the customers of The Lamb, he started by telling me a toe curling (and unfortunately unprintable) story of local hard man Razor Eddie and the consequences for any upstarts who showed disrespect to Alice.

He also told me about another gang of fake war heroes who appeared at the pub one day.

One day my gran said that was these four blokes came in. It was just after lunchtime on a Sunday and four blokes came in and- “Give us four pints Alice would you?” She said, “Are you the band that goes down the Brick Lane?” He said, “Yes that’s right, we got a bomb today”. She said, “Would you mind leaving because I don’t like people like that, and refrain from coming in the pub in future”. Now this is told to me. I said to my mum, “What did they do?”

She said there have been men who come in that big car, they get out and what they do, they strap one leg up and put a false wooden leg on, and the other one puts blind patches over his eyes and another one makes his coat all floppy. She said they go and play rough old tunes, down on Brick Lane, as war veterans. She said they never went to war in their lives. It was only then my gran realized who they were. She won’t have them in the pub anymore.

It was very nice down there. Everybody knew everybody most of the time.

I asked Ray when did Alice moved away ?

It was 1956 I think, I was gone in the RAF, nan sold the pub and moved down to Sandwich in Kent and bought another pub called The Bricklayers Arms which backed onto the River Stour. It’s right next to the yacht club it was, beautiful pub very oldie worldy.

The Lamb public house sometime pre 1861. Reproduced with the permission of The Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives.

Ray and I talked a little about how the pub became The Sporting Life in 1964 and eventually closed down in 1993 before being turned into flats.

I did go back to Bethnal Green and what they’ve done, because I think it became The Sporting Life for a little while. They got hold of the pub and they’d ripped all the outside tiles off. There were these beautiful deep mahogany red tiles with pictures made out in the tiles for coaches and horses and men. The windows was scribed with all these lovely things on the windows.

You went into the pub itself and the bar was mahogany. Between each of the bars was a mahogany wall with glass you could see through. They’d ripped the whole lot out. Painted the outside matte black. Inside, all the lovely chairs had gone and they had plastic armchairs and settees along there- along the sides. The bar .. it looked like somebody put a load of stones there and a marble bowl on top. It was absolute rubbish. Completely taken the bloody place apart. It didn’t last long anyway because then it got sorted out. Somebody made it into flats or something.

We then got to talking about his memories of the local businesses he remembered around the Estate.

“I saw you had some Facebook messages from Patricia Allen who said her grandfather used to run the paper shop down next to the pub? – I used to sell papers for him as a lad. I used to go around, he give me them all in a canvas bag and I used to go down Three Colt’s Lane to a place called Allen and Hanburys. I used to go under the arch, around the back where all the goods used to go in. I used to stand there saying, “Star News or Standard. Star News or Standard.” As they come out of work they used to get the papers off me.

Another little shop sold groceries and things opposite Allen’s there. Right across the road was a taxi place. There was a huge big taxi firm across the road from the pub.

If you came out of the Lamb and started walking up Wilmot Street, the first place you come to on the left-hand side was a cafe. Now, not a lot of people know that because it’s closed down just after the war, anyway, it was a cafe, but the next one was Arnold’s. It was a big shop that sold all sweets and lemonade and all that sort of thing.

Now there was no more shops on Wilmot Street at all. Until you got right at the top. Right at the top on the corner was a sweet shop.

Now I’m going to tell you something now that will curl your hair. At the end of the war and just afterwards there was a big royal do and everybody was going to have a street party. All the kids had come back off of evacuation and everything else. There’s going to be this big party. He used to sell sweets and all sorts of things in that shop. He was the one who was allocated to be responsible for getting all the money, so he had a book in there and you used to go in and give them so much a week and he put it down in the book and everything else. He did Wilmot Street, Ainsley Street, Finnis Street, Corfield Street. On the day all the ladies got their tables out and they’d laid all the tables with sheets and seats and everything and all this stuff was supposed to arrive, nothing arrived. The shop was locked up, nobody saw him again.

We had musicians turning up, we have magicians turning up. What the blokes did, they said, “We’ll get him, don’t worry.” Anyway, they smashed open the door, took all his sweets and stock out and put them all on the table. They just went back indoors and made sugar sandwiches. That’s the only thing they had in those days, sugar sandwiches. We got loads of them, these big cans of lemonade and big bottles that had those little glass things in thing. We pinched everything out of the shop to do it. They still had their party. The magician did it for nothing. The people who were helping out did it for nothing, a shop off Bethnal Green Road. They sold bread and cakes and all that sort of thing. All the stuff that they had left over and it was mid-afternoon, though brought down and gave them to them. We had the party.

When you got to the end of Wilmot Street, Bethnal Green on the right-hand side, the corner shop was a butcher’s. On the left-hand side was Philips and Scoons. Philips and Scoons used to take money after people monthly and then every so often you could go in and get a shirt or some socks or that, out of the book.

They didn’t do it to anybody else except for Waterlow estate. So if you went up Ainsley Street, off of Wilmot Street, along Ainsley Street, turned left to go out towards Bethnal Green Road on your right-hand corner was the police station. All the way up that side was the police stables. When you got to the top, on the left-hand corner was the Camden’s Head, a pub. “

Camden’s.Head.456.Bethnal.Green.Road.

“The Estate was a good place to live, it was wonderful. No women were ever touched. No kids were ever touched. The doors were always open. They didn’t have much there. You go in anybody’s house and on the floor would just a wooden floor with paper on. On the table, when you’re at your dinner, it was paper. When I used to live in with my gran there wasn’t another bedroom, so I used to live in an alcove with blankets and a straw palisade sort of thing between the blanket. There was newspaper between the blanket that went over and the coats. We used to have the coats on to keep warm with newspaper as well.

The actual buildings themselves, they all had flat roofs. When you went up the stairs to the flats, when you got to the top, you continued up another flight of stairs, and there was a door there, you open the door, you went out, you are on the flat roof.

But there was a wall all around it, with railings on, so as you couldn’t fall over, you know, and the ladies from the top two flats used to go and hang their clothes up there, and on the top there were small water tanks, as well up there so you could go up one block if the “coppers” were chasing you, right, one up the block, right to the top, get to the top, go out of the door at the top onto the roof, put the bolt on, because then the police couldn’t get on, you see, then you’d go one, two, three, four blocks away, say down towards Ainsley street, along the top of Corfield street, open up and go down and out that way and they would never caught you.

Note – There is still one block on Wilmot Street with a flat roof, on the East side. Unlike the rest of the estate this block wasn’t modernised by Barrett Homes so it has a slightly different layout inside, and retains the flat roof with access for tenants.

The open roof on Wilmot Street in 2018

“There’s a thing that I saw, was just after the war there was a person called Oswald Mosley who led the black shirts who supported Hitler and all that. He decided he was going to show off and walk down Wilmot street with his men, got them to march down with all their placards. They marched in from Bethnal Green Road.

As they walked down the men got-started to go down, about a dozen policemen just formed a line across the end of it that meant nobody else could go in following them down, and when they went past Ainsley street, you have to picture this, once they got past the entrance to Ainsley street another load of policemen came and formed a line there so as nobody could go on to Wilmot street.

When they got down to Finnis street, another line of policemen closed off Finnis street so as nobody could go down there. Once they got down by the side of the school they were all marching down, suddenly in front of them they found about a hundred blokes with pickaxe handles, and lumps of wood, and all sorts, waiting for them.

Now those blokes started to move back up Wilmot street, and as they did that the policemen at Ainsley street moved out of the way, and a load of blokes with pick axe handles and everything walked into Wilmot street. So they were trapped in the middle of it, and the police wouldn’t do anything about it. They just stood there whilst the Bethnal Green lads gave them a bloody good hitting and there was ambulances, and all sorts to take them away. The police never did a thing.

Mosley was chucked out, and the load of them were badly injured and ended up in the London hospital, and Bethnal Green hospital.

After a bit of research it seems that The Waterlow Estate had a number of brushes with Mosley. I can find reports of events in 1947, 48 and 49. In this 1947 report from the Daily Mail, there is a description of violence – 

“Fighting broke out in Wilmot St., Bethnal Green, last night after a “secret” meeting had been addressed in an LCC school by Sir Oswald Mosley. Several demonstrators prevented from approaching the school said they were members of the 43 Group of Jewish ex-Servicemen, and were demonstrating in a peaceful and orderly manner, not as “organised gangs” as alleged by Sir Oswald Mosley. When the meeting ended Sir Oswald drove away at top speed, accompanied by members of his bodyguard. Fierce street fighting lasted about 20 minutes.”

(Daily Mail, 28/11/47)

Sourced from this article

I’ve even managed to find a photograph of him speaking at The Wilmot Street school in 1948.

Embed from Getty Images

Finally this Daily Worker newspaper report from 1949 details a dance (!) at the Wilmot Street school which billed as an anniversary of the 1936 Battle of Cable street.

I’m hugely indebted to Ray for taking the time to talk me through his early life on the estate. When I set up this site I couldn’t have dreamed that people would be so generous with their time and allow me to record and share their memories with the world. Thanks also to Mark Herrington for arranging our conversation.

If you’d like to share memories, photographs or anything else please get in touch in the comment section below.

 

Waterlow Estate in 1965

A few weeks ago I was contacted by reader Peter Gasson who mentioned that he had a photographic slide he had taken many years ago. I was very keen to see the photograph and so dropped him a line.

Peter said: “As promised, here is a copy of the colour slide of Waterlow Buildings. The date on the slide is September 1965; this would be the date it was processed, but it would have been taken not more than a month or so earlier”

Photograph of Waterlow Estate taken in 1965 by Peter Gasson

I was right to be excited by Peter’s offer, this is a rare glimpse at the blocks that used to sit on Finnis and the western side of Corfield Street. They and the inscription are now lost as the blocks were demolished in the mid 1970s (you can glimpse them along with the inscription in this image).

The full text of the inscription reads –

Waterlow Buildings
Bethnal Green
Dwellings for 1025 Families
Erected by the Improved Industrial Dwellings Co. Ltd

I asked Peter how he came to take the photograph: “I used to live in Highams Park and regularly took the train to Liverpool Street, so I saw Waterlow Buildings from the train and was quite taken with the distinctive Victorian style of the inscription: “Erected by the Improved Industrial Dwellings Company” which I had often seen from the train. One day I got off the train at Bethnal Green and photographed it. The photo was taken from the platform of Bethnal Green Station.

All I knew of Waterlow Buildings was what I could see from the train. As it happens my father was born in the Bethnal Green Road and attended the school in Wilmot Street, but he had moved away during the 1920s.

I think I would have been interested in Waterlow Buildings in any case. The sheer scale of the estate was impressive, if rather forbidding”

Other than the inscription I was also struck by the dark and grubby condition of the brickwork, I asked Peter if this was a product of the film stock or whether the buildings did appear to be so dark in person –

“The photo was taken on Kodachrome. I’d say the colours are fairly accurate, allowing for the fact that – to judge from the sky – it was taken on a dull day. At that date much of inner London, including many of the famous buildings, was still blackened from a century of London soot. Some films of the time bear this out – e.g. The Ipcress File. Cleaning was just starting; I think St Paul’s Cathedral was one of the first of the famous buildings to be cleaned. It is sometimes hard to believe how London looked then compared with today.

Recently I took a nostalgia trip on the same line from Liverpool Street to see what had changed. I tried to make out what had happened to Waterlow Buildings and how much had survived, and this was what led me to your website”.

Thank you to Peter for taking the time to share his photograph and memories of the buildings as he saw them on his daily commute in the 1960s.

I went up to the Bethnal Green Station platform today and took a photograph from roughly the same spot.

The same view of Finnis Street taken from the platform of Bethnal Green Overground station in 2018. You can see the block on the eastern side of Corfield Street still standing.

Related – Here’s an image of these Finnis / Corfield Street blocks during demolition

John Mossell – Memories of Corfield Street in the 1970s

Having a (very) niche obsession such as the Waterlow Estate means months of trawling the internet finding very little and then once in a while hitting the jackpot. It was in this vein that I recently happened across The Streets of Waterlow Estate and Bethnal Green Facebook group. I’m not sure why I’d never tried searching Facebook before but this group has proved to be a treasure trove of memories and photographs of the Estate.

A particular highlight was a link to a clip from Thames News in 1982 detailing the state of disrepair the buildings had fallen into by this time. You can see the clip here.

I struck up conversation with John Mossell (the founder of the group), which led to me asking if he’d mind sharing some memories from his time growing up on the estate in the 1970’s. John very kindly put together a number of lengthy and fascinating emails which I’m going reproduce on the here along with some drawings and photographs which he shared. He covered a number of topics so I thought I would break the posts into three sections.

  1. Starting here with John’s personal memories of growing up on Corfield Street in the 1970s onwards. John has a wealth of knowledge about the conditions and layout of the Corfield Street flats during this period.
  2. A post about the Greencoats Tenants Association who were instrumental in getting the Estate out of private hands and under the control of the London Borough of Tower Hamlets in 1963. Following their success they switched focus to organising outings and social gathering for residents.
  3. Finally some memories of the local businesses and shops who supplied the residents of the Estate.

I want to thank John for his great effort and time he put into putting all this information together. It is thanks to dedicated people like him that the social history of the East End lives on,

Over to John:

Moving to Corfield Street

My Dads eldest sister and her husband and their son lived in Corfield Street from about 1958 to the Summer of 1981. Her and my dad together with six other siblings were brought up in Blackwall buildings (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwall_Buildings), demolished in the 1960s, located at the Whitechapel end of Vallance Road. I believe they moved to a house in Bethnal Green in early 1940s due to fire damage following bombing during the war.

In the 1950s my aunt and uncle spent some time living in Kilburn but wanted to return to Bethnal Green so their Son could attend Raines Foundation Grammar School based in Stepney at that time. They therefore secured a flat in Corfield Street which I think was a second or third floor flat in the block (Eastern side, southern end) that included the passageway arch which still exists. I think that some of the flats in this block had two bedrooms because of their configuration above the arch passageway. By 1967 I think the first modernised blocks on Corfield Street were complete and they moved into the block on the corner of Ainsley St and East side of Corfield St.

I believe through my aunt enquiring for them and them themselves looking for accommodation with the landlords, that my mum and Dad moved into their first married home on Corfield Street in March 1961. For the first 9 months of their marriage they had lived with my dad’s parents in Elwin St near. Columbia Road flower market. Due to shortages in accommodation, I think probably would have been as a result of aftermath of bomb damage / destruction, it was common for married couples in the East End to live in a room or (if in a house) a set of rooms with one of the parents.

I still have rent cards and landlord documents for their first flat, 185 (4th block. down from Ainsley St) on the western side and northern end of Corfield St.

At that point the landlords were still Greencoat properties. I have a document dated from 1963 that shows that is when many of the blocks were taken over by LB (London Borough) of Bethnal Green, which formed part of LB Tower Hamlets when created in 1965.

First wave of refurbishments 1966 to 1972

By December 1969 the middle sections of blocks on the eastern side of Corfield Street must have been ready following refurbishment, as my parents moved into a new refurbished 2 bedroom flat formed from two of the one bedroom flats knocked into one, as you probably have heard about from other people. During this extensive period of modernisation for Corfield St, which must have lasted for about 5 years or so, began in about 1966 (I am using photographic evidence that a member posted on the Waterlow Estate Facebook page which show modernisation taking place and has the year quoted is 1966) and lasted until about 1971/2. Many of the individual one bedroom flats were renovated based on the two into one format, especially on floors on the 2nd or above. To reflect the reduced number of flats the numbering was slightly different when blocks were ready for families to move back into, this is supported by seeing archive plans of block numbering posted by members on the Facebook page about three years ago. For example, in the new block my parents moved into their new flat number 301 was on the 3rd floor whereas before the renovation flat 301 was one of two 1 bedroom flats on the ground floor. In fact I know one of the Facebook group members lived with their family in the old 301 on the ground floor before the renovations.

map showing original numbering scheme

 

My parents new flat was modern, for late 1960s standards, and a palace compared to their one bedroom flat (scullery kitchen with indoor toilet, no bathroom and no hot running tap water) at 185 Corfield. They had a sitting room (not on bay side of block so it had a plain window) to the left of the front door, where the sitting room of original one bed would have been located. Opposite the front door a small passageway led to an individual bathroom (just bath and sink) and then to a small toilet room, each with their own window overlooking the newly created balcony structure. The bathroom and toilet room along with the small passageway would have been originally occupied by a bedroom of the original one bedroom flat.

Opposite our living room door (and to the right of the entrance to the flat) was located the new modernised kitchen which was in same location as the old flat, but the back of the blocks was remodelled with newer shorter length windows.

John’s sketch of the flat he grew up in on Corfield Street

The back of the kitchen held newly installed kitchen cupboards with a modern style sink / drainer. Underneath the sink/drainer section and worktop, were 4 sliding door cupboards where the. One under the draining board held the gas water boiler which provide hot water to the kitchen and bathroom. My memory of this as a child and right up until we vacated the flat in May 1985, was that it was not very reliable providing water not particularly hot at times, as the pilot light would constantly go out and had to be re-lite. All the original Victorian fireplaces of the original small individual flats were blocked in or demolished (when comparing to the plan of the 1 bed on your website and other people’s memories [reproduced below]).

Layout of 33 Corfield Street during the 1960s. Read the full article here: http://wilmotst.com/192-index-htm/

In the living room where the original fire chimney breast was there was installed a modern gas fire with a simple modern wood fireplace surround. I remember this worked very well compared to the boiler, and when to it’s full setting would keep the living room nice and warm. There was no other heating installed like central heating to the flats. My dad, as with many other families, installed extra heating in the bathroom and kitchen with wall fitted mounted single bar electric heaters. From memory these were hand wired in the existing electric light pennants. A common occurrence, I believe then but very dangerous by today’s health and safety standards. My dad was a competent in woodwork and electric DIY so the installation seemed to me pretty reliable and safe.

Outside balconies or verandas (as I remember some people called them back then) were created with the refurbishment of the blocks by turning the original kitchen window into a door space and linking this with a metal and concrete structure, including new rubbish chute system, creating the balcony linking to the next flat. Depending on configurations most flats shared a balcony but some had the luxury of their own balcony. We shared with the three bedroom flat on left, but the four bedroom flat on our right did not. After our kitchen the passageway led to the right into the territory occupied by the original second one bedroom flat in the same block. The original kitchen of the second flat became the smaller bedroom (my bedroom) with remodelled back wall and smaller modern window like the kitchen. The next bit would have been identical to the space of our bathroom and toilet and would have been the bedroom of the original second 1 bedroom flat but to create the bigger four bedroom flat next door to us in the next block (our good neighbours for many years at 306) this was given over to be part of that flat. So by knocking two flats into one, you could create either 2, 3 or 4 bed flats by using a space from one flat to give an extra bedroom to another, a sort of “robbing peter to pay paul” principle.

From my bedroom you turned right into the passageway of the original second flat, on the left was the wall that would have originally had the front door to the second flat. This passageway led to my parents bedroom which was the same size as our sitting room which would have been the original sitting room of the second one bedroom flat. As we were on the third floor this bedroom did not have a bay window but it was on top of the bay structure so had a larger window with three portions and overlooked an original small Victorian ornate balcony feature, which my parents would climb onto to clean the window from the outside! After the second late 1980s modernisation these were removed from the bay window structures as I think this was connected to the structural problems identified in 1982.

The new balconies that were installed in the last 8 blocks of the southern end and the seven on the western end of Corfield were different in style (I know this as the second flat I lived at from 1990 had such a balcony) further evidence to me that these were the last blocks to be modernised on the street. These balconies were solid brick extension structures added on to the backs of the original buildings, instead of metal and concrete structures as explained above.

The rear of the East side of Corfield St 1966.

With the late 1960s/early 70s modernisation one beds with two on a floor remained on the ground and sometimes first floors. I can not be certain but by visiting other flats of friends and neighbours as a child, and knowing a lot of about the size of the families that lived there, apart from one bedrooms, I would say 2 bedrooms were most common followed by 3 beds and then a scattering of 4 beds for the larger families. For example if facing the front of our block on the third floor we had a two bed (No. 301), the flat on the block on the left (good friends of the family still today) at 294 was a three bed and the flat on the same floor, that I already mentioned on the right at 306, was a four bed to accommodate a family where there were 6 children and the two parents.

To create enough floor space for two 1 beds on the same floor to have a modern bathroom and kitchen, I am fairly certain they must have used the same principle of “borrowing peter to pay paul”. For example in my block there were two 1 beds on the ground and on the 1st floors. But in each block on either side on the first floor there was only one, one bedroom flats.

The new flat my aunt and uncle lived in from 1967 (approx) was on the first end block on eastern side of Corfield St. As this was a larger block being on the end, their 2 bed flat was on the same landing as another one bed flat, so no two flats knocked into one, the layout therefore being slightly different to our flat. The front entrance door was immediately in front of the stairs (if memory serves) and not on the left or right of the stairs, however the flat that shared the same landing was in the normal position being on the right. As you went in there was small square hall. Immediately in front of the entrance door was a door to the sitting room. A door to the left of the front entrance door accessed the first bedroom where you had to walk through another door to the left of that to get to another slightly larger bedroom. I think because of the corner block situation, they all had similar sized windows and both bedrooms were similar with in size. As that second bedroom was on the corner of the block that room had two windows, one a bay balcony like our flat and one to the right a standard Victorian style sash window. To access the smaller kitchen (compared to ours which my aunt made no secret of being a little envious of!) that was accessed via the sitting room. Once in the kitchen on the far left there was another door that led to the bathroom which I think did not have separate toilet room but was combined, I seem to recall there was a little “vestibule” area before entering the bathroom. On the left of the kitchen window opposite the kitchen entrance from sitting room I think was entrance to a small balcony which was not shared, and also had one of the modern rubbish shoots like all the other flats. I am trying to recall other details but my memory is hazy on this. I don’t know why but the blocks Of the first part of the late 1960 modernisation, like Ainsley St, were installed without gas, and all had Electric fires and cookers. The blocks later on like our flat had gas fires and gas facilities if you wanted to install a gas cooker or there was electrical installation point if you wanted to have an eclectic cooker instead.

John’s Mum in her updated post 1960s kitchen on Corfield Street

John’s Mum in her updated post 1960s kitchen on Corfield Street

So from looking at my family history and looking at dates of some photos taken during construction in 1966 (posted on the facebook page) the order of modernisation by LB Bethnal Green / LBTH of the blocks were:

  1. Whole of Ainsley Street section in about 1963.
  2. Seven blocks on the eastern side, north end of Corfield Street in about 1966/67
  3. From approx 1967 to early 1970, six block middle section (which housed my parents second flat), and eight block last section on eastern side. I can not work out which section of the two started first. I know my parents moved into their refurbished flat in the middle section of December 1969 (I still have the new rent card from this time and it’s image is posted in the Facebook page)
  4. Seven blocks on southern side, north end of Corfield St, were the last to be done, as I know my parents vacated their first flat in this section to move into the new flat across the Street in December f1969. Gathering by some Facebook members comments, who lived there, the work would have started perhaps anytime into 1970 once all the 70 families were rehoused. I think that section must have been complete by end of 1971 or start of 1972.

Second wave of refurbishments and demolition (early 1980s)

When vacating the old flats it was common for families like my parents and aunt to transfer to a modernised flat in another part of the estate. Some families also moved into the new flats having lived in properties on Wilmot St or Finnis St.

The 15 blocks located on the far (9 blocks) and middle section (6 blocks) of the western side of Corfield were not modernised and I believe families started to decant from approx late 60s to early 70s.

None of the 21 blocks on Finnis St (15 blocks on the side where the red brick houses are now and 6 blocks on the same side as Hague School) were modernised, I am not sure exactly when families started moving out, but I would guess it was when some moved to refurbished flats on Ainsley or Corfield. The fifteen block section of Finnis Street that backed onto Corfield Street were demolished in mid 1970s, and for the six blocks on Hague School side these were demolished in 1980.

A guide to the development, refurbishment and demolition of the buildings of the Waterlow Estate in Bethnal Green.

I had vague memories of what the Finnis Street blocks looked like, but recent photos posted on the Facebook pages shows the fifteen block section was almost identical to the fronts of Corfield St, but the back of the blocks were completely square, where Corfield Street was not. From looking at a photo on the Facebook page that shows partly the six block section this looks slightly different to the other blocks on Finnis St. Looking at the Home guard parade photos from WWII, the three blocks that were demolished on Wilmot Street, opposite the Good Shepherd Mission, looked also very similar to the blocks on Corfield St.

Section of wall from the original IIDC buildings on Finnis Street

During the 1970s families particularly elderly couples or single people still lived in Wilmot that was not refurbished in the 1960/70s programme of refurbishment (still no bathroom and only toilet accessed via kitchen). I think when people died or families were rehoused the blocks eventually became abandoned. If memory serves Wilmot Street was completely vacated by about 1980/81. When you see it in the Thames TV clip the flats are completely empty, many windows and outer doors on lower basement and ground floors were bricked up, and all in a story state of repair.

Thank you to John for taking the time to detail the layout and conditions of the buildings, in this period.

By the 1980s it is clear that the fabric of the estate was in an extremely poor condition. Documentation and letters from the time  (such as those below) show that the local authority was considering the option of demolishing the entire estate, luckily whilst a number of the buildings where demolished many were renovated and offered up for sale around 1986. These are the buildings we see today (other than some modifications to the windows on Corfield Street made in the 1990s)

Myself and other Facebook group members have many fond memories of those times and it was a sense of community with everybody, all ages and all ethnicities, living together on the same estate working together. The ethnic mix of those days reflected the area of the time. During the 1960s to the move out of the early 1980s the ethnic mix was mainly families of English/Welsh/Scottish origin, there was then a largish Irish community. Where families like mine who parents were born in Ireland and came to U.K. In 50s and 60s. There was a scattering of Afro Caribbean families, and I can can only recall one Asian family (Indian the family that lived next door to us) up until late 1970s with some Bangladeshi families moving in by early 1970s before the move out.

Looking back on my memories and from an adult perspective the modernised blocks from the late 60s and early 80s on Ainsley and Corfield seemed to deteriorate very quickly by the time we get to 1982 when structural surveys, you mention from your research, were carried out and the scaffolding goes up. The modernisation in some parts was between only about 11 to 15 years old by the time we get to them deteriorating and demolition considered (as you point out from your study of the archives). From memory, I seem to recall LBTH completed the rehousing of most people / families from a period from 1983 up until about late 1985. But if memory serves there were a few people remaining by 1986/ 1987 and some were (including the couple that lived below us) offered new flats in the council owned blocks that had in the meantime been refurbished and were now ready to move into, as part of the new deal between LBTH and the building firm you know about. I believe people got up to three offers of new accommodation, and were required to accept the third offer.

The first offer we had, about late February 1984, was a two bedroom maisonette of off Ravenscroft Street near Hackney Road. But we did not like it and the reason we gave for rejection of flat offer, was general layout and the boiler would have been in my bedroom! We did not get our next offer until over a year after, in late April 1985, in a flat in a refurbished estate off of Globe Road at the junction of Roman Road. My mother and I (my father having died a relatively young man in June 1980, loved the fact it had gas boiler for hot water and central heating and everything was new, and we therefore moved in mid May 1985 ending for my mother a 25 year period of living on Corfield Street. We both loved the new flat for the first few years or so, as it was modern and had a gleaming new kitchen and bathroom with.

Return to Corfield Street

Constant hot water and central heating, but the neighbours were not the same, and we started to miss Corfield Street, the people, the location of that part of Bethnal Green and it’s general atmosphere. It got to the point that when we knew the late 1980s refurbished flats were up and running we thought about advertising for a mutual exchange. In early 1990 we put an advert in a shop window (that is how it could be done then) requesting anyone from Corfield St interested in exchange, which we got no interest. In May 1990 we then noticed a card asking for an exchange and we successfully responded and moved, after doing the lengthy and bureaucratic exchange paper work with LBTH in July 1990. I still lived at home when my mother passed away and I took over the tenancy in 2000, living there as an adult right up until the summer of 2011, when I got on the property ladder and bought a place in Bow.

In 1995 tenants were alerted to the fact they the bay window and porch entrance structures to the blocks were unsafe and subsiding from the main building. I can not remember the precise details but I think Barrett were investigated and. considered at fault for not identifying/rectifying when they the did the late 1980s refurbishment. From attending some residents meetings in 1995, a financial compensation deal, I believe, was obtained for both the privately sold blocks on the and the LBTH ones and a 18/24 programme was underwent to demolished the original porch and bay structures and replace them with more structurally sound replicas. People living in. smaller flats were decanted and moved into similar sized flats that were vacant. in blocks already completed in the rolling programme of repair work. We had a two bedroom flat so we stayed during the works, but we lost half our sitting room where it was blocked off to allow bay section to be demolished and totally rebuilt. Therefore the porch entrances and bay structures you currently see, on all the blocks that survive on Corfield Street, are not the original Victorian built. structures but rebuilt replicas from the mid 1990s. I seem to recall similar work occurred for blocks on Ainsley Street but not for Wilmot St.

Thank you to John for taking the time to share his memories of the Estate. Along with this post my conversations with John also led to this post about the Greencoats Tenants Association. , as well as this post about the locals shops and businesses. You can find the Waterlow Estate Facebook Group here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/WaterlowEstate/

 

Marketing leaflet from Barrett Homes

Today I was contacted by Gareth, who said

“I recently rediscovered some of the Barratt sales literature from the mid-eighties redevelopment. I found the Barratt sales folder at the back of a drawer in the kitchen – respect to the various owners for keeping it. The printed folder is A5 with a few inserted sheets providing plans of a couple of property types.

The idyllic illustrations on page 4 are a joy to behold.”

I’ve very excited to share the pages from the brochure here.

You can also download the PDF that Gareth sent me.

All that talk of being near to Channel Ports sounds quite dated, I can’t imagine many residents were jumping their car and nipping off for a weekend in the South of France but perhaps I’m wrong.

You can see a more complete breakdown of the Barrett layouts in the two blueprints reproduced below.

Speaking of idyllic scenes there was a plan at one point to close off Wilmot Street to traffic. There is a drawing of how that could look in some of the original plans from Barrett. This seems to be looking south down Wilmot Street with the school on the left.

Barrett also explored the idea of putting two bed houses along one side of Corfield Gardens although that never came to fruition.

On a related note I also recently spotted these Barrett ‘ghost signs’ on the corner of Wilmot Street and Bethnal Green Road. I’m guessing that they date from the early 1980s redevelopment.]

I’m always excited to hear from readers who have stories, photographs or any other material from any era of the estate. If you do have something to share then leave me a comment below and I’ll get back in touch via email.

 

Marketing leaflet from McInerney homes

I recently came across this brochure from McInerney homes for the houses on the South West side of Corfield Street and along Finnis Street. These homes were built around 1981 and so far this is the only information I’ve been able to find about them. They are very typical of suburban homes built in the 1970s and early 80s but as such seem a little out of place in Bethnal Green.

I also found an advert from an Prevost estate agents (now Look Property Services) for one of the houses from around 1983 which I’ve also reproduced below.

Reproduced with the permission of The Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives.

On a related note there’s now a very interesting (and tiny) house on Finnis street which seems to have been added to the side of one of the existing houses. You can see inside via the Rightmove website.

Minstrels in the Courtyard

It’s impossible to shake the shock of seeing black face, but this is a fascinating image that captures something of the era and shows how the rear yard would be used in the buildings. I love finding these sort of scattered and fragmented images of the buildings and the lives lived in them.

I found this photograph a few years ago whilst on one of my many internet excursions searching for historical information about the Waterlow Estate. Unfortunately it seems the original site has disappeared, if you are the owner I hope you don’t mind me reusing the image. Please drop me a line or respond in the comments so I can add your credit.

The website I found it on stated that “It was taken around 1910-14 at Waterlow Industrial Dwellings in East London. The players names, I was told, are: Standing, Bertie Kirby, Bill Kirby. Seated, Messrs Avis, Warner, Thompson, Warner and Harry Reynolds.”

He continues “This group would play in the courtyard of the block of flats where they lived. This was real home entertainment. Neighbours from the flats would assemble in the courtyard, bringing food and drink and enjoy the show. I believe this type of show was very popular at the time. Today some ‘modifications’ would certainly be needed!”

 

The Waterlow Estate under scaffold

A fantastic news report from Thames TV in 1982. It seems that the buildings were starting to become dangerous in the early 1980s and scaffolding was erected to protect the residents from falling masonry !

Credit to John Mossell of the Waterlow Estate group for finding this gem (https://www.facebook.com/groups/WaterlowEstate/)

Memories of the Waterlow Estate 1928-1963

A few months ago I received message from a gentleman named Bernard. He outlined his long relationship with the estate which went all the way back to his birth on Finnis St (No 21) …

“..In 1928 , and in time went to Wilmot St. school. We then moved to Wilmot St.(No22) and I went to Stuart Headlam school, through the arch across Three Colts Lane,on the right hand side, opposite Barnsley St. From there I was evacuated to Suffolk until after the bombing stopped. That’s another story. After the war my wife and I lived in No.327 Corfield St. for a time”

He also responded to my post about a photograph I’d found of Wilmot St before or during WW2. His Message:

“A bomb did fall in Wilmot Street and although I was evacuated at the time, my mother told me about it.The bomb landed in the backyard and went under my parents bedroom at number 22. Fortunately, it didn’t explode. After this everybody had to leave. After a few days and before the Bomb Disposable people arrived my mother went back in she said ”to get the insurance books”. The air raid warden saw her and she got a severe ticking off ”Don’t you know that walking on that floor could have set that bomb off”

I dropped Benard a line and he very kindly agreed to talk further with me about his memories of the Waterlow Estate.

You mentioned that you were born on Finnis Street in 1928, do you know how long your family had lived there ?

I suspect that it was near enough from the time they were married in 1926.

What did your family do ?

My father was an iron moulder, which was an apprenticeship, so he must have started at about 14 yrs old. He was excluded from armed forces service because his job was in the exempt class. My mother in her early days worked as a ‘finisher’ for a baby clothes firm, then worked for Godfrey Phillips – the cigarette manufacturer – then on to Allen & Hanburys – the well-known pharmaceutical company as a cook in the Directors restaurant.

The rear of the Corfield Street buildings in 1966.  Taken from the Allen and Hanburys carpark (now the Pillbox building). Reproduced with the permission of The Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives.

Did you have any relatives living nearby ?

My aunt lived in Corfield Street on the corner with Ainsley St, and a cousin who lived near the top end of Wilmot St, not far from Phillip & Scoones, a drapers store.

How old were you when your family moved to Wilmot Street ?

I must have been around 5 or 6 yrs old when we moved to Wilmot St.

Can you describe your childhood when living on Finnis and Wilmot Street ?

I have very few memories of my time in Finnis St, just snatches of memory of Wilmot St School, although it was a period when I wore leg irons but still annoyed my mother in running around the yard there. I can’t remember moving to Wilmot St, but went to Stewart Headlam School from there. Was also evacuated to Suffolk, aged ten.

Can you tell me about your experience during the war ?

During the war i went to a small village and was billeted with 3 other boys. school was intermittent. after a time I learned I had passed the 11-plus exam, and went to the West Suffolk County School. Sometime, I think in l944, I came home and went to Parmiter’s School in Approach Rd. until the VI’s and V’2 – flying bombs and rockets – began to fall. I then went back to Suffolk, but to a different area.

Considering the size of the estate it’s amazing that it remained unscathed from the Blitz, was there a lot of damage nearby that you remember ?

I have mentioned elsewhere on the website about the unexploded bomb under my parents flat. A buzz bomb landed on the Francis of Assisi Church at the Cambridge Rd end of Three Colts lane.. but as far as I know that was the nearest damage.

You then mention that you married and that you and your wife moved into a flat on Corfield Street, which year was this ?

My wife and I married in 1950 and moved into a flat in Corfield St (No.327) and We lived in Corfield St for 7 yrs.

It’s quite extraordinary that you lived in nearly every street in the Estate. Do you remember the buildings themselves ? .. were they in good condition at that time ?, Do you know if they had been altered much from their original Victorian state ?

I certainly remember the buildings, and they were in very good condition, except in certain areas, for instance, we lived then in No.22, which was a basement flat and the front room was damp. I slept there and as a consequence became asthmatic in later years. There was no sign of any alterations to the original building having taken place.

Was the roof pitched or flat when you lived there ? .. were you able to gain access to the roofs ?

The roof was flat. Sometimes we played up there, and some of the residents hung washing on the roof.

Do any local characters or stories spring to mind ?

I remember that Sir Percy Harris was our Liberal M.P. and my Wife was at school with the Kray twins (dubious claim to fame, but says they were nice enough boys then).

Are there any particular local shops, businesses or pubs that you remember ?

Phillips and Scoones, the only apartment store in the district. Wastells, the local greengrocer in 3 Colts Lane. Three pubs, The Lamb on the corner of 3 Colts lane and Wilmot St.The Lion, through the arch opposite Wilmot St. The Good Shepherd Mission on the other corner of Wilmot St. Feganbaums, the fish shop at the corner of 3 Colts lane – who later moved business to the main B.G road. The third pub was at the end of Three Colts Lane and Dunbridge Street.

Were you still living in the area when any demolition or remodelling took place ? .. I’ve been unable to find much photographic evidence of the Finnis Street buildings so I’m not sure how they looked .. Do you remember if there were blocks on both sides of the road ?

No, I left before the changes took place. There were blocks on both sides of Finnis St, except were the school was.

When did you move away ?,

1960.

Have you been back and visited since you left ?

Yes,our family took us back for a visit 2 yrs ago. We couldn’t trace our flat as I believe they had been made larger by incorporating 2 flats into one and the numbers had been changed.

I’m also doing some research at the moment on the streets that were eventually demolished to become Weavers Fields, (Mape, Seabright, Viaduct, Sale St etc etc), do you remember this area at all ?

My wife and I remember those streets. She lived in Sale street until she was 16 years old and then moved to Loughton Essex. There was nothing memorable about them.

Photograph of Seabright and Cheshire Street, pre 1939. Reproduced with the permission of The Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives.

I’m especially interested in Saint Andrews Church as no photographs of it seem to exist .. do you remember the church ?

I know of it. I was baptised there because somewhere I have a card that says so but I cannot find it.

 

Thank you to Bernard and his wife for taking the time to give such full and detailed answers. If you have memories of the area and would like to share please leave a comment below and I’ll drop you a line.

Memories of growing up on Corfield Street

Since I started renewing and updating this website I’ve had some interesting comments from new readers. Very recently I was contacted by Lesley who wrote:

“I lived in Corfield Street from 1956 and the layout of the flats had changed from those shown on your archive pages. I could probably provide a rough outline of our flat if it is of interest. Also, by that time the top of the buildings were flat and provided a place for people who did not live on the ground floor (who had direct access to the communal yard between the buildings), to dry their washing in the fresh air. In the winter it was great fun to go up there and have a snowball fight across the street with kids on the roof of the opposite building.”

As one my the main goals of this site is to collect together stories and information from those who lived in the estate I was very keen to get in contact with her and find out more. Luckily Lesley was extremely generous with her time and agreed to answer some questions and even sent over some photographs and a plan of her flat as it was when she lived in it.

First here are the Photographs she sent me.

“Here is a copy of the best picture of Corfield Street I have found in my photo collection. I guess that it was taken about 1960. The photo is taken from the Three Colts Lane end looking along the street, with Ainsley Street buildings visible in the distance. The buildings on the left (that I lived in) have now been demolished as you know. The raised ‘boundaries’ around the bottom of the buildings originally housed iron railings which I guess were recycled during the war.”

It’s interesting to see the blocks on the western side of Corfield Street, they’ve since been demolished to make space for the series of houses in Cul-de-sacs and the open garden space at the north end of Corfield Street. I have tracked down some more images of these blocks which you can see here.

“This one is taken looking toward Three Colts Lane, at the same time as the original photo I sent through.”

“I think this was taken on Boxing Day 1962 – the big snow”

“Me with my primary school in the background (it is still there as a business centre I believe) – Hague Primary School. Weavers Field as is (directly behind me) was then just a bomb site.”

“The last photo is taken in Three Colts Lane at a similar place, looking back towards Wilmot Street. If I remember correctly, the building on the left (just beyond the priest) was a Barnado’s boys home at the time.”

“I have also done a ‘rough’ outline of our flat in Corfield Street. We were on the side of the block without the bay window. I remember that at the entrance to the flats there were under stairs store rooms which you could rent to put bikes etc. in.”

I commented to Lesley that the layout seemed fairly similar to their current configuration and she replied that “one of my Uncles went to view the converted flats when they became available in the 60’s and he said that to make the bigger units, the joining wall (shown as the right hand side kitchen wall in my diagram) between the two flats had been removed to make one larger flat.”

Lesley was then very kind and spent time answering some questions I had:

How old were you when your family moved to Corfield Street ? .. where they from Bethnal Green originally ?
I was 2yrs old when my family moved to Corfield St.in 1956. My fathers family are all from the area, my mothers family was from Kent.

What did your family do ?
My father worked as a production controller in the ‘rag trade’ and was based in various places in London – Aldgate, Mortimer St (W.End) etc.. My mother worked as an accountant at Allen and Hanbury’s in Bethnal Green, just around the corner in Three Colts Lane! I remember that site quite well, the main building now being the Pill Box.

Did you have any relatives living nearby ?
Most of my fathers family also lived in Bethnal Green. One sister and one brother lived in Brady Street mansions in Brady Street with their respective partners. Brady St mansions looked fairly similar to Corfield Street but with a communal ‘front courtyard’ – I don’t know if they were built by the same company. Another brother lived in St Matthews Row (west of Weavers Field) and his mother and youngest brother both still lived in Barnard House in Ellsworth Street (opposite the Bethnal Green Road end of Ainsley Street). My paternal grandmothers brothers and sisters also lived in the area, having been born there. When I traced my family tree, I gathered my grandmother had never lived further than 2 miles from where she was born, except when evacuated during the war!

Can you describe your childhood when living in Corfield Street ?
I remember living in Corfield St with mostly fond memories. I had friends from school also living in the street and we used to play outside together when our parents allowed which was usually for a couple of hours after school. At that time Corfield St was designated a ‘play street’ (there were signs at both end of the street) which meant that through traffic was prohibited. We rode our bikes and played football or cricket with the other kids in the street. Violet Street was accessible by an arch between the buildings and was a pedestrian cut through. Someone had drawn stumps on the wall at the end with chalk and it was a favourite place to play cricket. The security guards in the entrance lodge at A&H were forever retrieving balls for us! As we got older we were allowed to stray further afield on our bikes but only to explore the surrounding area of the Waterlow Buildings. On Sundays the ‘winkle man’ used to come around, pushing his barrow ladened with shell fish – winkles, whelks, prawns. I also remember the ‘Corona man’ came once a week – this time with a lorry full of fizzy pop. Of course there was always the rag and bone man.

Did you go to school locally ?
I went to Hague Primary School (Mape Street) until I was 11yrs old.

Are there any particular local shops or pubs that you remember ?
I always remember Ron’s the barber on the corner of Corfield St and Three Colts Lane and the 2 shops (a newsagent and a grocers) as previously described between Finnis and Wilmot Street. I think the now Good Shepherd Mission was a Barnado’s Home at that time. There was also a pub on Three Colts Lane, but I’m not sure what it was called, being too young to notice – it might have been the Lamb on the corner of Wilmot St but I can remember another too – which was probably The Duke of Wellington, just around the corner next to A&H. I remember the Police Station on Bethnal Green road, The Shakespeare pub next door (where a neighbour held their post marriage festivities) and the shop on the corner of Wilmot St which is Furniture Xpress now was a furniture shop then too. Obviously Kelly’s pie and eel shop was a staple and we used to go to the Brick Lane to purchase bagels from the many jewish bakers in the area. There used to be many market barrows running along the southern side of the Bethnal Green road from Wilmot St to Vallance Rd selling groceries, fruit and sundries. There was a fish stall (outside of Kelly’s I think) which sold fresh eels, which would be sleepily slithering around on ice. There’s an old story (no idea if its actually true) to the effect that one day an eel escaped and was making its way across the Bethnal Green road. A woman waiting at the stall shouted out to the stall holder ‘quick, save that eel, it’s just about to be run over by a bus!’ The stallholder stopped the bus just in time, retrieved the eel and returned to his stall. The woman who had shouted out then said ‘I’ll have that one’ at which point the fishmonger chopped the head and tail off, split it, removed the guts and wrapped it up and sold it to her.

Do you remember the buildings themselves ? .. were they in good condition at that time ?
At my time in Corfield St (1956-1966) I thought the buildings were nice and in good shape, looked after proudly by the residents. People took it in turn to wash down the communal stairs and I don’t remember there being any rubbish around, even in the alleyways. There was no feeling of ‘slum’ or ‘underpriviledged’ and most parents were able to pay for their kids school dinners. In those days if you couldn’t afford to pay for dinner, you had a different colour dinner card, so it was pretty obvious who was really poor.

Do you know if they had been altered much from their original Victorian state ?
I was far too young to realise the provenance of the buildings.

Was the roof pitched or flat when you lived there ? .. were you able to gain access to the roofs ?
The building roofs were communal (ran the length of each block) and flat. They were accessed from the top floor of the stairway which ran up to an access door which were mounted on the side of a raised rectangle. As I said previously, when the snow came we had snowball fights across the road from there with the kids from the opposite side of the road.

What state was Weavers’ Fields in at this time ? .. where any of the old cottages still present ?
Weavers Field was a bomb site in those days and wasn’t developed until after my time I think. There were no buildings there to my recollection.

Do any local characters or stories spring to mind ?
The east end was full of characters in those days, but none in my street that I particularly remember. The Krays were pretty active at that time of course and Vallance Road was not far away. Interestingly they seemed to be pretty well respected in the area by the ‘populus’ (and not from a fear of them) – as they were seen to ‘look after their own’. I remember the shooting happening in the Blind Beggar and local rumours were that some of the Krays ‘victims’ were disposed of in the concrete pillars of the then under construction Bow flyover. It will be interesting to see if this urban legend is proved correct if the flyover is ever removed!

I have found some information that the Improved Industrial Dwellings Co. changed its name to Greencoat Properties in 1962, it seems that soon after this questions were asked about the condition of the buildings and the local Authority stepped in and took them over very soon after. Here’s a quote:

“During the Twentieth century, Waterlow’s buildings, were sorely neglected. They had moved from the management of the Improved Industrial Dwellings Company to Greencoat Properties Ltd. By the early 1960s these flat were described as ‘malodorous litter dens’. In 1962 Greencoat threatened tenants on the nearby Waterlow estate with doubled rents or eviction, which led to a rent strike. The result was the purchase of all former IIDCo properties in the area by Tower Hamlets council in the 1960s.”

Do you know anything about this ?
I do not remember anything about a rent strike (I wasn’t paying it of course) and the description of ‘malodorous litter dens’ does not square with my memories of the place up until 1966.

When did you move away ?, did you stay in the Bethnal Green area ?
We moved to newer rented accommodation in South London in 1966 (before the world cup).

Have you been back and visited since you left ?
Yes, I have been back a couple of times while researching my family tree.

Lastly, I’ve heard a rumour about a man who lived on Wilmot Street in the 1960s who won the pools. Apparently he paid the rent of everyone nearby .. I don’t suppose you ever heard this story ?
I definitely remember a man in Wilmot Street winning the pools. I think he may have been widowed (or divorced) as I think that only his daughter lived with him. It was certainly big news at the time – not sure how much he won but something like £2k or £5k comes to mind. It was a fortune in those days. I cannot confirm the story that he paid the locals rent though.

I want to thank Lesley for taking the time to find and send over these photographs and answer all my questions so thoroughly. I’d also like to thank her for giving me permission to share them here. This is precisely what I had hoped this site would become – a place to share stories and piece together the story of the Estate over the years.

If you or someone you know lived on the Waterlow Estate at any point I would absolutely love to hear from you. Please drop a line in the comments and I’ll be in touch.

 

Photographs of Corfield and Finnis Street

In a recent post (Memories of growing up on Corfield Street) I mentioned that I have come across a number of photographs of Corfield Street before the blocks on Western side of the Street were demolished. As promised here are the photographs (with sources where available).

Corfield Street 1968.

Source: London and Middlesex Archaeological Society Journal Vol22 part1 (http://www.lamas.org.uk/transactions-archive/Vol%2022.pdf)

Corfield Street, looking North from Three Colts Lane. c1970

Source: unknown

The rest are a series of photographs by Andrew Scott which were posted on the Spitalfields Life website.

Looking north up Corfield Street. The blocks on the left are boarded up ready for demolition.

Inside one of the Corfield Street flats.

Below I’ve posted a couple of images showing Corfield Street today, both are taken looking South to North.

Returning now to Andrew Scott’s photographs, but this time showing Finnis Street.

This is a guess but I think this photograph is taken from the rear of the now demolished Western side blocks on Corfield Street looking North West toward the rear of Finnis Street buildings with the Wilmot Street blocks in the far distance.

This is looking North towards Ainsley Street somewhere between Finnis and Corfield Street. By the looks of things this is during the demolition of the Corfield and Finnis Street blocks seen in the earlier photograph. You can also see a portion of what is now the Hague School on the left (this school used to be known as Wilmot Street Primary, and the Hague school was situated in the building which still stands on Mape Street). The blocks on the right are the rear of the now demolished western Corfield blocks.

This is a similar angle looking up through Finnis Street today.

Finally an image of Three Colts Lane with Ron’s Saloon to the right (also mentioned here). This photograph is by Tony Hall and is featured on Spitalfields Life.

If you look at the plans below (from the Metropolitan Archive) you can get an idea of where these photographs could have been taken.